The Practical Guide to Two Legendary Oils: Frankincense and Helichrysum
Updated: Sep 14
If you have ever stood in front of two little amber bottles wondering which one you actually need, this guide is for you. Frankincense and helichrysum both have legendary reputations, but they are not interchangeable. One is your daily workhorse. The other is what you reach for when something has gone wrong. Below, I hope you’ll enjoy learning the uses for and the differences between these two much-loved essential oils.
Understanding the Basics of Frankincense and Helichrysum
Frankincense is known for its versatility and calming properties. It is often used in daily skincare routines to support chronic inflammation relief, joint stiffness, and scar appearance over time. It also helps calm the nervous system and is a grounding meditation oil. The affordability of frankincense allows for generous use in your daily regimen.
Helichrysum, on the other hand, is your go-to for acute situations. It is the oil you reach for when something just happened—a fresh bruise, sprain, burn, or deep cut that has just closed up. Helichrysum is often considered a luxury due to its higher price point, making it less suitable for everyday maintenance.
If you can only own one, frankincense is more versatile and far easier on the wallet. If you only have helichrysum, you are sitting on a small bottle of liquid gold, ready to use for the right moments.
The 30-Second Answer
Reach for frankincense when you want everyday skincare support. It helps with chronic inflammation, joint stiffness, and the appearance of scars over time. It also calms the nervous system and is excellent for grounding during meditation.
Reach for helichrysum when something urgent occurs. This includes fresh bruises, sprains, burns, or deep cuts that have just closed up. It is the bottle you grab in a hurry. However, due to its cost, it is not typically used for everyday maintenance.
Want the benefits of both oils in one easy-to-use formula? Our handcrafted Helichrysum & Frankincense Balm brings these two remarkable oils together in one ready-to-use balm.
A Quick Comparison
Frankincense, in Depth
Frankincense comes from the dried sap of the Boswellia tree, mostly grown in Somalia, Oman, India, and Ethiopia. There are several species, and they are not identical:
Boswellia carterii is the most common in stores. It is balanced and all-purpose.
Boswellia serrata has the most clinical research, especially for joint and arthritis support. If pain is your focus, look for this one.
Boswellia sacra is the prized Omani variety. It has a beautiful aroma and is often pricier.
Boswellia frereana has no boswellic acids in the steam-distilled oil. It is more about aroma than therapeutic punch.
The pro move: a frankincense medley. Most people do not realize that the best frankincense formulas use more than one species at once. Carterii gives the balanced foundation, serrata brings the pain and joint research, and sacra adds depth and beauty of aroma. Blended together, they cover more ground than any single species can on its own. This is the thinking behind our Frankincense Medley blend, which is the frankincense base in our Frankincense Medley Massage Oil. If you are buying frankincense for serious daily use, a multi-species blend is the upgrade most people don’t realize is a meaningful choice.
A tidbit worth saving: Frankincense is one of the few essential oils that actually improves with age. A three-year-old bottle, stored properly, will often smell deeper and richer than a freshly opened one. This is the opposite of how most essential oils behave.
Daily use idea: One drop in your nightly moisturizer or face oil. That is it. You do not need more. Over six to eight weeks, most people see noticeable smoothing in skin tone.
Helichrysum, in Depth
Helichrysum italicum is distilled from small yellow flowers that grow wild in the Mediterranean, especially Corsica, Croatia, and parts of Italy. The Corsican variety is widely considered the gold standard, mostly because of higher levels of the compounds that make this oil special.
The two compounds that do most of the heavy lifting are:
Italidiones, a group of unique molecules that appear to break down bruising and support tissue repair.
Neryl acetate, which is calming to the skin and contributes to that distinctive honey-curry scent.
What it is known for:
Fading fresh bruises faster than they would on their own
Calming nerve pain, including sciatica flares and shingles-type sensations
Reducing the appearance of old and new scars
Soothing strained muscles and minor sprains
Speeding the look of skin recovery after burns and surgeries (once initial healing has happened)
A tidbit worth saving: Helichrysum has earned the nickname "first aid in a bottle" for a reason. Many seasoned users swear that if you can get diluted helichrysum on a fresh bruise within the first hour, the bruise will be noticeably smaller and fade faster than it has any right to.
A personal story that makes me smile: Once I was at an appointment with a sacral cranial massage therapist after I received a concussion. She always keeps a small bottle of helichrysum in her bag. She was getting some to use for my massage and accidentally spilled the precious oil. I was surprised when she quickly wiped up the spilled helichrysum with her bare hands and, rather than waste it, put it on any bruises, scratches, or brown spots she could find.
Why it costs so much: It takes roughly 2,200 pounds of flowering plant to produce 2 pounds of oil. Helichrysum is also one of the most commonly adulterated oils on the market because of its price. Source matters more here than with almost any other oil. The helichrysum we carry at Luxe Apothecary Shoppe is vetted for purity, country of origin, and chemistry.
Frankincense and Helichrysum for Pain
This is one of the most asked questions, so here is the practical breakdown.
For chronic, ongoing, inflammation-based pain (arthritis, old injuries that ache in cold weather, ongoing back stiffness): Frankincense is the better daily choice. Boswellia serrata, in particular, has the most evidence behind it for inflammatory joint conditions. Apply diluted, twice a day, consistently for at least three to four weeks before judging results. A multi-species frankincense blend like Fantastic Franks earns its keep here since you get the serrata benefits plus the carterii balance in one application.
For acute, recent pain (sprained ankle, fresh bruise, a knee that just went out, nerve flare): Helichrysum is the better grab. The italidiones go to work on the trauma response. Apply diluted to the area as soon as possible, and every two to three hours for the first day.
For nerve pain specifically (sciatica, neuropathy, lingering shingles sensations): Helichrysum wins. Frankincense supports, but helichrysum is the lead.
Together, they are stronger than alone. Many people find that a blend of the two creates better pain relief than either one solo. Frankincense calms the slow burn of inflammation, while helichrysum repairs the acute damage. Used together, they cover both ends.
When to Grab Which: A Cheat Sheet
If you have... | Reach for |
A bruise that happened in the last hour | Helichrysum |
Stiff hands or knees in the morning | Frankincense |
A scar you have had for years | Both, blended |
A sunburn that has stopped stinging | Helichrysum |
A breakout that left a dark mark | Frankincense |
Anxiety before a hard meeting | Frankincense |
A sprained ankle from this afternoon | Helichrysum |
Mature skin you want to support over time | Frankincense |
A fresh cut that has just closed up | Helichrysum |
A foggy head that needs to settle | Frankincense |
Print this list and tape it inside your oil cabinet. You will use it.
What to Look For in a Good Blend
Once you understand what each oil does, the next step is a finished blend that does the work you need.
For a pain or recovery blend: You want frankincense as the foundation and helichrysum playing a supporting role. Lavender is a near-universal addition because it bridges the two aromatically and adds calm. If the goal is pain, look for a blend that includes Boswellia serrata or a multi-species frankincense base rather than carterii alone.
For a scar or skin-smoothing blend: The classic combination is frankincense and helichrysum together, carried in a regenerative oil like rosehip seed or jojoba. Rosehip is the unsung hero here. It carries vitamin A and essential fatty acids that work alongside the essential oils. A good scar blend will smell mild, feel light, and not leave the skin greasy.
For daily face care: Less is more. You want frankincense doing most of the work, with helichrysum present in a small supporting amount, in a carrier that suits your skin type. Argan, jojoba, and squalane all work beautifully. If a "facial oil" smells strongly of essential oils, the concentration is too high for the face.
The dilution rule of thumb:
Full body: 2 to 3 percent total essential oil
Face: 0.5 to 1 percent
Children and pregnancy: lower still, and only with proper guidance
This is the blend we built for full-body massage and pain work. It is calibrated to a 3 percent essential oil concentration, the sweet spot for whole-body application without overwhelming the skin.
What is in it and why:
Frankincense Medley, our in-house frankincense blend is the foundation. Carterii for balance, serrata for the inflammatory and joint work, sacra for depth and aroma. One bottle does what most people try to do by buying three separate bottles.
Lavender softens muscle tension and calms the nervous system. It is also the oil that ties the resinous frankincense notes to the brighter notes in the rest of the blend.
Geranium adds a quiet floral lift, balances the heavier base, and supports circulation.
Bergamot FCF brings brightness without the photosensitivity that regular bergamot causes. The FCF stands for furanocoumarin-free, which means this blend is safe to wear before sun exposure. (Most bergamot blends on the market are not.)
Ginger CO2 extract adds gentle warmth that helps the whole blend penetrate and feel comforting on tired muscles.
Use it for: post-workout muscle soreness, chronic joint stiffness, tension in the neck and shoulders, or whenever you want a full-body massage that does more than smell nice. We make this in small batches in our shop. Get it here: Frankincense Medley Body/Massage Oil.
Dilution and Safety
Both oils are well tolerated, but skin is skin, and a patch test is always worth 60 seconds.
General dilution guide:
Adults, full body: 2 to 3 percent
Adults, face: 0.5 to 1 percent
Children over 2, full body: 0.5 to 1 percent
Pregnancy: Check with a qualified provider. Frankincense is generally considered fine after the first trimester. Helichrysum is debated. Err on the side of caution.
Carrier oil pick: Jojoba is the most stable choice and matches the skin's own sebum. Fractionated coconut oil is light and absorbs fast. Sweet almond is gentle and affordable. Avoid using these oils undiluted on broken skin.
How to Tell if Your Helichrysum is Real
Because helichrysum is so expensive, fake or cut versions are everywhere. Here is what to look for:
The price. Real helichrysum italicum, 10 ml, will typically cost between $30 and $60. If it is $10, it is not real.
The Latin name on the label. It must say Helichrysum italicum. Other helichrysum species (gymnocephalum, splendidum) are different oils with different chemistry, and some are sold under the same common name.
The aroma. Real helichrysum has a complex herbal, honey, and curry note layered together. If it smells flat, perfumey, or sharply floral, be suspicious.
The country of origin. Corsica, Croatia, Italy, and the Balkans are the trusted growing regions. Other origins exist but are less proven.
If you would rather not chase down a trusted source yourself, this is exactly why we carry helichrysum that we have already vetted. The work of confirming country of origin, Latin name, and chemistry is done before the bottle ever reaches the shelf.
Storage and Shelf Life
Both oils last longer if you store them correctly:
Keep them in dark amber or cobalt bottles
Store in a cool, dark place (a drawer beats a windowsill every time)
Tighten the cap fully every single time
Frankincense: 4 to 5 years, sometimes longer, often improves with age
Helichrysum: 2 to 3 years at peak potency, then it starts losing its therapeutic punch even if it still smells fine
Refrigerator trick: If you bought a larger bottle of helichrysum and will not use it fast, store it in the fridge in its original sealed bottle. You can extend its useful life by about a year.
Quick FAQ
Is one safer than the other? Both are among the gentler essential oils. Helichrysum has a slightly higher chance of skin sensitivity for some people. Patch test either before using on a large area.
Can I diffuse them? Yes. Frankincense diffuses beautifully and is a popular choice for evening or meditation. Helichrysum is rarely diffused because of its cost and its strong, polarizing aroma.
Are they safe around pets? Use with caution, especially around cats. Cats lack a key liver enzyme that processes certain plant compounds. Diffuse only in open, ventilated rooms and never apply to animals without veterinary guidance.
Can I take them internally? We do not recommend internal use without working with a qualified clinical aromatherapist. Skin and inhalation deliver the benefits safely.
What blends well with each? Frankincense pairs naturally with lavender, sandalwood, myrrh, bergamot, geranium, and rose. Helichrysum blends well with lavender, geranium, clary sage, and chamomile. Lavender is the universal bridge between the two.
The Takeaway
Frankincense is the steady, dependable, daily oil that quietly does its work over weeks and months. Helichrysum is the emergency room in a bottle that you grab the moment something happens. Own both if you can. Use frankincense often. Save helichrysum for when it matters.
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